"The acid burns!", is that correct?

A very well-known saying in the nail salon: "This product contains acid, which is why it stings under the lamp." A persistent myth that deserves to be debunked, because in reality there are two very different phenomena.

What does 'acid' mean?

With 'acid', we often mean that a product contains acidic ingredients. This has nothing to do with a low pH level, like with lemon juice. In the case of water-free gel product, a standard pH measurement is, in fact, of almost no significance.

But what is that burning feeling in the lamp?

This is often something completely different, namely a heat spike. During curing, the molecules in the gel form a network, an exothermic reaction that releases heat. The faster the reaction takes place and the greater the amount of product reacting at any time, the more intense the heat may feel.

What influences a heat spike?

There could be several reasons for this:

  • The amount and thickness of the product applied
  • The reaction rate and composition of the gel
  • The type and amount of photoinitiator
  • The intensity and wavelength of the lamp
  • The thickness and condition of the natural nail
  • Filing too aggresively or an already sensitive nail plate

A thick layer of builder gel can therefore give more warmth than a thin one, even without an acidic primer. Conversely, an acid base can cure without any problems when applied thinly to a healthy nail plate, using the correct lamp.

Is there any connection?

There is usually an indirect link. With aggressive preparation, filing too harshly or a strongly adhesive system has made the nail plate thin or sensitive, the heat generated during curing is not effectively blocked. The client is then more likely to feel pain.

Whilst this does not prove that 'the acid burns', it does highlight just how important proper preparation is.

How do you know the difference?

The burning sensation during curing is a heat spike. A stinging sensation immediately after application, even before using the lamp, is more likely to be caused by irritation of a damaged or extremely thin nail plate. Itching, swelling, redness, blisters or lifting are other signs that may indicate irritation or an acrylate allergy.

Knowledge of the product and of the nail plate makes the difference between a customer who is in pain and one who doesn't feel a thing.