Sofie Devlieger is standing up for you as a nail professional.

Letters have been sent to the relevant authorities, your voice is being heard.

In a world full of uncertainty around the TPO legislation, we opt for transparency, correct info and real support.

Read along, stay informed and know: you are not alone.

With this letter, as a recognised professional active within the cosmetics sector and in charge of an academy with official recognition in Belgium, I would like to express my concern about the ban on the substance TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) in cosmetic products from 1 September 2025, as stipulated in the European Cosmetics Regulation.

While I fully support the principle of product safety and the protection of consumer health, I note that, in its current form, this measure is disproportionately detrimental to the professional market and does not solve the original problem, but even risks exacerbating it.

1. TPO has been used safely in professional applications for 20 years

TPO has been used for two decades in nail products in concentrations of up to 5%, and then only in professional contexts. When used correctly - i.e. without skin contact, with full curing and by trained users - the product is safe. Any allergic reactions are usually due to:

  • incorrect use by individuals (skin contact, use of inappropriate curing lamps),
  • lack of training or guidance,
  • uncontrolled purchases via e-commerce platforms that are not required to comply with European legislation.
  • Reproductive toxicity concerns refer to uncured material, not the fully cured substance.

2. COVID and e-commerce have shifted the problem to consumers

During the corona pandemic, the number of consumers purchasing nail products - intended for professional use - through e-commerce platforms such as eBay, Amazon, AliExpress, Temu and Shein increased exponentially. Many of these platforms sell products containing TPO or other risk substances without warnings, restrictions or oversight from government agencies.

Professional wholesalers and salons that do comply with regulations are disadvantaged as a result. The current measure therefore mainly affects the professional market, while the real cause remains unaffected. Moreover, it is economically and technically wrong: it undermines the European economy and leaves borders open for unregulated products.

3. Dumping of TPO products on second-hand platforms

The announcement of the ban is already leading to an uncontrolled sell-off of TPO-containing products through second-hand websites. This - ironically - accelerates the product's entry into private hands, posing health risks.

Professional users, meanwhile, are held responsible for the misuse by private individuals. This erodes European regulations, while we, as licensed professionals, are powerless against non-compliant competitors.

4. Loss of profits and unfair competition

Professional salons and wholesalers have already suffered badly from the corona crisis. Although they operate within European standards, they face an increasing influx of products from countries outside the EU - often through e-commerce and parallel imports - that are not compliant with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

These products:

  • contain banned substances,
  • are often mislabelled,
  • are sold to consumers without supervision.

The abrupt ban causes:

  • serious economic damage due to unusable stocks,
  • destruction costs for products,
  • competitive disadvantage for authorised wholesalers, professional salons
  • hasty reformulation of products by brand owners, without sufficient time for stability testing.
  • In the UK, the ban only applies from the end of 2026 - giving breathing space to the industry there. I therefore advocate a delay or phased introduction within the EU.

5. Proposal for action

I call on you to:

  • Include a ban on sales of professional cosmetics to individuals in European e-commerce legislation.
  • Protect professional users and distributors through realistic transition periods and an open dialogue with the industry.
  • Establish a control plan for second-hand sales of cosmetics containing banned ingredients.
  • Strengthen enforcement on online marketplaces.
  • Develop uniform customs controls for products containing banned or restricted substances.
  • Provide stricter control and enforcement on imports of cosmetics through foreign online shops.
  • Protect the position of licensed professionals by more strictly delineating the distinction between professional and consumer products.
  • Provide for effective communication: the Cosmetics Portal is not publicly accessible and too cumbersome without a login

6. Personal reflection

What affects me personally is this: how is it possible that cigarettes - which have been proven to be carcinogenic - can still be sold, while TPO - a non-carcinogenic substance that has been shown to be safe for professional use - is banned on the basis of alleged reproductive toxicity?

I therefore call on government agencies and the European Commission to:

  • Strengthen enforcement on online marketplaces.
  • Protect the position of licensed professionals.
  • Monitor the difference between professional and consumer products.
  • Introduce a ban on the sale of “for professional use only” products to consumers.
  • Provide uniform customs controls on banned/restricted substances.
  • Give the industry a grace period so that safe alternatives can be developed without exacerbating the financial consequences.

I speak on behalf of countless concerned professionals, training centres, distributors and manufacturers committed to safe, quality products. Let's work together to ensure that the right users are protected - without punishing the professional sector for mistakes beyond their control.

Please let me know how I, as a professional or company, can actively contribute to structural solutions.

Kind regards,

Sofie Devlieger

CEO & Founder ASAP Nails & Beauty